WALTER LAMPL’S LOVE AFFAIR WITH JADE
Walter Lampl launched his eponymous wholesale jewelry business in 1921, just one year after marrying lovely Sylvia Lichtenberg, whose birthday was in November. Sylvia was not enthusiastic about her birthstone, the topaz. So, after only six years in business, Walter demonstrated his devotion to his wife by launching a major campaign to have jade declared a new alternative birthstone for November.
Walter and Sylvia’s wedding photo - 1920.
From the beginning, Walter showed remarkable aptitude for marketing and networking. He was a regular advertiser in both of the trade magazines serving the jewelry industry during the 1920s, never missing any of the issues of The Keystone (a monthly) or the Jewelers’ Circular, which was published every two weeks. In June of 1927, however, he pushed his new company, with its emphasis on using materials imported from China, to a new level of prominence by publishing a two page article in The Keystone entitled “Jade - the Ideal November Birthstone.”
The article began by quoting an anonymous “young lady of social distinction” who complained about being gifted with topaz earrings by an “ardent admirer” who hoped to impress her by honoring her November birthday. Apparently her feelings on the matter were strong enough that when pressed further to explain she said, “If I could have my way about it I would change my birthday or change the birthstone for November.” Then, when asked what stone she would prefer, she gave this response. “Jade. There are two reasons why jade is my favorite semi-precious stone. First it is a stone of character, and is available in such a wide variety of tints and shades that it is adaptable for use in any number of useful and beautiful ornaments. Secondly, it is a stone with a history and a meaning far surpassing topaz, which makes it worthy of a place among the twelve birthstones.” This little speech does not sound very much like a young lady of social distinction pouting about her birthstone, but it definitely does sound like a jewelry wholesaler attempting to promote the popularity of jade.
Walter Lampl then went on to report on the characteristics of both nephrite and jadeite, the minerals known collectively as jade, and to describe jade’s versatility in the creation of many different types of jewelry that could be worn as an “ensemble.” He stated, “Rings, bracelets and ear-drops, carved pendants, necklaces and brooches, all made of the same type and color of jade, give the alert jeweler an opportunity of selling six pieces to the customer who, in the case of topaz, would be limited to one for the simple reason that, in the latter case, he has nothing more to offer.” The article further suggested that after the customer had come to love the idea of owning multiple jewelry items of matching jade, the jeweler could then continue to offer even more items such as “toilet articles, ornamental clocks, pin-trays, fan frames, hand bags topped and inset with this beautiful ‘Green Gem of the East.’” It also pointed out the excellence of jade as a material for men’s wear such as cuff links and rings.
A brief and romantic history of jade followed, with photographs of skilled Chinese workmen carving and polishing these stones.
The article concluded with a separate sample article that all readers of The Keystone were encouraged to send under their own names to the editor or society reporter of their local newspapers to build public support for jade as an alternative birthstone for November.
Three months later, The Keystone for September 1927 continued to promote jade jewelry with a cover showing a Walter Lampl Art Deco ensemble consisting of a carved jade necklace, bracelet, and ring spilling out of an Asian-themed box.
For the next two years, Lampl’s full-page ads in the trade magazines included examples of “ensemble” jewelry created from Chinese carved semiprecious gemstones, always including jade.
Then, in March of 1929, the cover of The Keystone featured another spectacular Art Deco carved jade and diamond Walter Lampl necklace, this one laid casually on a tabletop next to an Asian-inspired Art Deco lamp, looking as if it had been hastily taken off and cast aside during an impetuous moment.
And beginning in that same issue, a new series of full-page Walter Lampl ads appeared. In each of these, Lampl focused on a single material imported from China. Seed pearls, lapis lazuli, jade, amethyst, carnelian, coral, and rose quartz all had full pages devoted to their beauty and utility, with an emphasis on exoticism and the distinctive qualities of each. The ad in this series that promoted “Jade…the aristocrat” was first published in June 1929. It read, in part, “Jade is the precious stone of China with a noble lineage that dates far back into the history of that country. An exceedingly tough silicate, Jade is hard and compact. It has a tenacious disposition and a quality of resonance when struck. Despite the popular impression that it is chiefly green, the colors of Jade are multiple. It may be raven black, sea-fog white, russet, gray, or lavender. There are, of course, all shades of exquisite green - ‘kingfisher’ green, emerald, gooseberry, lettuce and apple green.” “Fashioned into ensemble jewelry models of rare charm and individuality, jade lends sophistication to the formal and informal present-day costume.”
And then came The Crash. As the world economy sank ever more deeply into the Great Depression, many things changed in the jewelry world. The Keystone and the Jewelers’ Circular shrank dramatically in page count as advertisers, readers, and advertising revenue disappeared. In December of 1934 the two magazines merged into a single monthly named the Jewelers’ Circular-Keystone. Most of the buying public could no longer afford luxury goods.
Walter Lampl’s company continued to thrive during these lean years, largely due to his ongoing love affair with jade, and he continued to promote its use in his advertising aimed at retail jewelers. “Our collections of Jade present many beautifully conceived pieces…Exclusively luxurious…Yet INEXPENSIVELY PRICED in accord with the trend” (March, 1931). “DESIGNED…for those who demand distinction. PRICED…for the most limited incomes. Walter Lampl has solved the problem for the lover of unusual and beautiful jewelry, in presenting these exquisite precious stone pieces at prices that accord with this era of economy” (December, 1931). “Concessions in Price but no Compromise in Quality” (September, 1932).
Sylvia and her children in 1934 - Walter, Jr., Burt, and Miriam. Note Sylvia’s carved jade pendant necklace.
The jewelry industry organized to promote trademarks as a means to protect brand names, ensure quality, and increase sales. The Keystone ran a contest open to “any person in the jewelry business, manufacturers, wholesalers, importers, retail jewelers or their employees.” Entrants were required to identify all the trade marks appearing in The Keystone for three issues - January, February, and March, 1933 - and answer the question “Why are Trade-Marked products most profitable to the jeweler?” Thirty-nine companies contributed prizes for this contest - everything from gold and diamond wrist watches to sterling bon bon dishes - but the top prize was donated by Walter Lampl. The winner of this first prize was Vida Mae Douglas of Lima, Ohio, who worked as a bookkeeper for Basinger’s Jewelry Store. She received a “carved jade pendant set with diamonds mounted in 14 kt. gold, with a 14 kt. gold chain.” Her photo, wearing that necklace, appeared in the July 1933 issue of The Keystone. If any of Vida’s heirs happen to be out there reading this, please send some pictures of that necklace! It would be amazing to see it close up.
After China was closed to trade in1937 by the beginning of the second Sino-Japanese war and then by World War II, Walter Lampl was forced to reluctantly turn his business away from its long romance with jade and other Asian gemstones. As supplies ran out, he shifted his focus to other products, always staying at the forefront of stye and design. But his campaign to elevate jade had been at least a partial success. Today, jade is recognized as an alternate birthstone for both March and August, although not for November.
