CINNABAR - LAYERS OF MEANING AND BEAUTY
From 1925 until the line of supply was cut off by World War II, Walter Lampl incorporated treasures imported from China into his jewelry. Although he was not the only wholesale jeweler in New York to use these materials, or even the first to come up with the idea, he took these materials, then considered exotic in America, to new heights of fashion. In keeping with his motto, “Creators of the Unusual, As Usual,” Lampl’s designs captured a special magic, mystery, and elegance. One of these highly valued imports was carved cinnabar lacquer.
Cinnabar was unique among these imported Chinese materials because although it was made from natural materials, it was an entirely human creation. Lampl was known for his use of semiprecious gemstones such as lapis lazuli, jade, amethyst, carnelian, rose quartz, topaz, onyx, turquoise, and chalcedony, as well as for his use of natural materials from the sea such as coral and seed pearls. But cinnabar was, and is, something quite different from any of these.
The word “cinnabar” has different meanings, depending on context. It is the common name given to a naturally-occurring mineral, mercury sulfide. The word has also been used to describe the color of that mineral, a color that has also been known as “vermilion.” But in the world of jewelry, the word “cinnabar” is most often used as a quick way to describe a manmade product more correctly known as “cinnabar lacquer.”
Mercury sulfide has its origins in volcanic activity and mineral hot springs. It is mined as a crystal, similar to quartz, from veins in the earth, and is often found with other crystals, including semiprecious gemstones such as chalcedony, opal, and quartz. Since ancient times, it has been valued for its brilliant color, which ranges from scarlet to brick-red. In ancient times, it was mined primarily for use as a pigment, but over the years it became an important part of metalsmithing and the production of various alloys. Today It is the major source of elemental mercury used in science and industry.
Mined mineral crystal cinnabar - mercury sulfide.
Although mercury was recognized as a toxin at least as far back as Roman times, ancient peoples throughout the world used powdered cinnabar for all manner of decorative and ritual purposes, including as a cosmetic similar to rouge or blush.
Powdered cinnabar used in the burial of Kinich Hanab Pakal, ruler of Palenque, 615-683 A.D.
Beginning in the Song dynasty (960 - 1279), Chinese craftspeople developed a decorative carved lacquer technique that harnessed the beauty of the cinnabar color but removed the risk of toxic exposure after the product was complete. Powdered mercury sulfide was mixed with the sap of a tree belonging to the sumac family (Rhus verniciflua). This bright red sap was then applied in thin layers to a wooden base. As it dried, it formed a natural plastic that was resistant to water, heat, and even some acids. The number of layers varied from 30 or 35 all the way up to 200, depending on the thickness of the layers, the quality of the piece, and the depth of the intended carving. Each layer had to be allowed to dry thoroughly before the next layer was applied, so the process of building a deep, rich cinnabar lacquer suitable for carving could take many months. After the lacquer had thoroughly dried and cured, skilled artists carved intricate designs into the lacquer, leaving the wood beneath untouched. All types of luxury decorative items - vases, boxes, bowls, small furniture, and jewelry - were produced using this technique. Although the risk of mercury poisoning was real for the workers who produced these beautiful works of art, the final product held the mercury safely bound within the lacquer.
Chinese cinnabar lacquer box (1403-1424 A.D.) included in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
The technique for making cinnabar lacquerware changed very little between the time the beautiful box shown above was created and the early 20th century when Walter Lampl began importing carved cinnabar to the United States for use in his jewelry. Over the years since then, dramatic changes in the jewelry still identified as cinnabar have taken place. Modern cinnabar lacquer uses resin-based polymer and synthetic dyes instead of the traditional tree sap and mercury sulfide pigment. While some of these pieces may be finely carved and quite lovely in their own right, overall the quality of the carving has been sadly diminished over time, with modern pieces more crudely worked and lacking fine detail. Buyers must also beware of carved wooden jewelry that has been painted red to resemble traditional cinnabar.
Well carved modern bracelet made of resin-based polymer over a brass foundation, with an enameled interior. Dates to circa 1970.
Cinnabar lacquerware has traditionally been associated with very positive symbolic attributes. The material itself is considered to be protective of the wearer; it is believed to grant strength, courage, stamina, assertiveness, and victory or success. Additionally, the carvings may hold specific meanings, such as pomegranates (fertility), flowers (various meanings depending on the type of flower), or dragons (good luck, strength, health).
Walter Lampl dragon motif cinnabar brooch with natural turquoise.
Walter Lampl peony motif cinnabar brooch, set in 14K gold, symbolizing wealth and prosperity.
Care of your vintage or antique cinnabar is fairly simple. It can be brushed with a soft brush to remove dust in the grooves. It can be wiped with a damp cloth or a swab if needed. Although the natural polymer of the dried sap is somewhat resistant to water, it is best to not soak the jewelry or allow it to become very wet as that could damage the finish or cause discoloration. Avoid the use of chemicals, waxes, or polishes. Cinnabar lacquer can chip if it takes a direct blow or is dropped on a hard surface.
Despite the toxicity of mercury, there is no risk to wearing cinnabar jewelry under normal circumstances. The mercury sulfide is bound within the lacquer and is not absorbed through the skin. It should not be sucked or chewed on by children, pets, or anyone else! Under exposure to extreme heat, such as being thrown into a fire, it is possible for the polymer to melt and the mercury to vaporize, but temperatures exceeding 800 degrees Fahrenheit are required to make that happen.
Finely crafted antique or vintage Chinese cinnabar holds a special place in any jewelry collection. It remains as unusual, meaningful, and fashionable today as it was when Walter Lampl first introduced it into his own jewelry line almost 100 years ago.
